Hem



Sept. 1, 1925. 1552 313 B. M. KRELL HEM Filed Dec. 19-. 1922 git/amen filers/710v" Bernard H Kf'll Patented Sept. 1, 1925. I

UNITED STATES 1,552,313 PATENT. or-Free.

BERNARD M. KRELL, or NEW YORK, N. Y.

Application filed December 19, 1922. Serial No. 607,821.

To aZZ whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, BERNARD M. KRE 'L, a citizen of the United States, residing in New York, in the county of New York and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Hems, of

which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to French hems par ticularly for shirt fronts though it is noted that the invention is not limited to shirts Another object of the invention is to provide a hem of this kind which may be easily formed by the use of easily operated machine attachments.

Another object of the invention is to 'provide a hem of this kind which may be assembled in a variety of different ways to suit different purposes. Y

Other ob'e'cts of the invention are to improve' generally the simplicity and efficiency of such hems and to provide a hem of this kind'whic'h is durable, economical to manufacture and which will not wear out or come eray 'The inventive features for the accomplishment of these and other objects are shown in connection with an improved hem which, briefly stated, comprises a stiffening strip having inner and outer folds forming a front main portion, a rear marginal portion behind and spaced from an intermediate portion having its extreme edge portion dis: posed between the main portion and the rear marginal portion; and a piece of outer ma terial disposed across the front'of the main portion, around said outer fold, across "the rear face and around the edge of said rear marginal portion, then between-said marginal portions, and then between said intermediate marginal portion and the face por tion and terminating near to or remote from said inner fold depending upon the amount of material to be taken care of. I show various arrangements of stitches for secur 7 ing said strip and said material together.

Other objects of the invention will appear as the description proceeds; and while herein details of the invention are described, the invention is not limited to these, since many and various changes may be made without departing from the scope'of the invention as claimed.

In the accompanying drawing, showing by way of example,three of many possible embodiments of the invention,

Fig. 1,.is a diagrammatic fragmental perspective sectional view showing a completely formed hem with one arrangement of stitches holding the parts together;

Fig. 2 is a diagrammatic fragmenta l perspective sectional View showinga com'pletely formed hem with another arrangement of stitches holding the parts together;

Fig. 3 is a diagrammatic fragmentalsectional view showing a completely formed hem with another arrangement of stitches holding the parts together, and showing little material taken care of; and

Fig. 4 is a diagrammatic fragmental sectional view showing a completely formed hem with still another arrangement of parts and showing a large amount of excess material taken care of in the seam. I

My improved French hem for shirt fronts 5 (Figs. 1 and '2) or other material comprises a stiffening strip 6 of thicker textile material than the shirt front having a pair or inner and outer longitudinal folds 8 and 9 forming a front main portion 10, a frear marginal portion .11 extending from the outer fold 9 behind and spaced from the main portion 10 terminating intra-marginally of the main portion. 'An intei'rm'ediate marginal portion 12 eXtendsfrom the inner fold 8 tonear the outer fold '9 and has its extreme edge portion 13 disposed between the main portion 10 and the rear marginal portion 11. The piece of shifting 5 'or outer material is disposed across the frontof the main portion 10, around said outer fold 9, and across the rear face of said rear marginal portion 11 to form aback portion .15. From this back portion 1-5 the material 5 extends around the inner edge 16 of said rear marginal portion 11,- and then between said marginal portions. Thence the material passes between the intermediate marginal portion 13 and the face portion 17 of the material and terminates near to or remote from, said inner 'fold 8 depending upon the -amountof material 5 to be taken care of, as for matching stripes, patterns or the like or for other purposes.

A line of stitches 20 (Fig. 1) parallel and near to the edge of the rear marginal portion 11 passes through said face, back, marginal and main portions 17 15, 10 and 11 and said material between the marginal and main portions. A line of stitches 21 near and parallel to said inner fold 8 passes through the main and intermediate marginal portions of the stiffening strip, and the face portion 17 of the outer material.

When the line of stitches 20 extends, as in Fig. 1 through both face and back portions 17 and 15, the stitches 21are not necessary for holding the seam together, and their omission would leave the edge 8 free, as is often the case with shirts heretofore on the market with other forms of seams.

When the stitches 21 are present, the stitches 20 need not extend through the face and back portions 17 and 15. Fig. 3 shows corresponding stitches 20 extending through the back portion 15 but not through the face portion. While in Fig. 2, the corresponding stitches 20 do not extend through either the back portion 15 or the face portion 17 The rear marginal portion 11 increases the thickness and body of the hem, which is sometimes desirable, but this rear marginal portion may be omitted, as shown by the form of hem of Fig. 4:. In this form the stiffening strip 6 has an inner longitudinal fold 8 forming a front main portion 10, and a rear portion 12 disposed to the rear of the main portion, each of said portions being folded upon itself'a's at 9 to form an inturned edge portion 11 disposed between said front and rear portions. The piece of outer main material 5 is disposed across the front of the main portion 10, around the outer folds 9 to the rear of said marginal portion to form a back face 15 and then passes between said back face 15' and said rear portion 12, then between said edge portions 11, and is then extended between said main and rear portions to near the fold 8. A line of stitches 20 passes through said back, rear, edge and main portions and the material therebetween; while another line of stitches 21 near said inner fold 8 passes through said front and rear portions and the inner edge of said material. It is noted however, that the stitches 21 and the edge portions 11 are not always necessary. But if the stitches 21* are present, it is not necessary for the stitches 20 to pass through the front of the material 5.

In practice, it is sometimes desirable, as when matching stripes, or modifying sizes to include more or lessof the material 5 in the seam. This is easily done by extending the inner edge 24: (Figs. 1 and 2) near the fold 8, as shown of the edge 24: in Fig. l or less near, as shown of the edge 24 in Fig. 3. In this way the excess of material is taken care of. The distance between the stitches 20 and the stitches 21 or 21 or'the fold 8 or 8 is made great enough to take care of the maximum amount of excess material.

I claim:

1. In combination, a strip having an outer fold forming a front portion, a rear portion behind and spaced from said front portion, one of said portions being extended to form a marginal portion having its edge disposed between said front and rear portions; and a piece ofouter material disposed across the front of the front portion, against and around said outer fold, across the rear face of said rear portion and then between said front and rear portions. 2

2. In combination, a strip having inner and outer folds forming a front main portion, a rear marginal portion behind and spaced from an intermediate marginal portion having its extreme edge. portion disposed between the main portion and the rear marginal portion; and a piece of outer material disposed across the front of the main portion, around said outer fold, across the rear face and around the edge of said rear marginal portion, then between said marginal portions, and then between said intermediate marginal portion and the main portion.

3. In combination, a stiffening strip having an inner longitudinal fold forming a front main portion, and a marginal portion disposed to the rear of the main portion; a piece of outer main material disposed across the front of the main: portion, around the outer edge portion of the main portion and to the rear of said marginal portion, and then between said back face and said marginal portion, then between said marginal portion and the main portion; and stitches passing through said back, marginal and main portions and said material therebetween.

4. A French hem for shirt fronts'comprising, in combination, a stiffening strip of thicker material than the shirt and having a pair of inner and outer longitudinal folds forming a front main portion, a rear marginal portion extending from the outer fold behind and spaced from the main portion terminating intra-marginally of the main portion, and an intermediate marginal portion extending from the inner fold to near the outer fold and having its eX- treme edge portion disposed between the main portion and the rear marginal portion; a piece of shirting or outer material disposed across the front of the main portion, around said outer fold, across the rear face and around edge of said rear marginal portion, then between said marginal portions, then between said intermediate marginal portion and the face portion; a line of stitches parallel and near to the edge of the rear marginal portion and passing through said marginal'and main portions, said material therebetween andto the rear of the rear marginal portion and the front of the main portion; and a line of stitches near and parallel to said inner fold and passing through the main and intermediate marginal portions of the stiffening strip, and the front portion of the outer material.

5. In combination, a stiffening strip having an inner longitudinal fold forming a front main portion, and a rear portion disposed to the rear of the main portion, oneof said portions being folded upon itself to form an inturned edge portion disposed between the front and rear portions; and a piece of outer main material disposed across the front of the main portion,'around the outer edge portion of the main portion and to the rear of said rear portion to form a back face, then between said back face and said rear portion, then between said front and rear portions.

6. In combination, a stiffening strip haV- ing an inner longitudinal fold forming front and rear portions, each of said portions being folded upon itself to form an inturned edge portion disposed between the front and rearportions; a piece of outer material disposed across the front of said front portion, around the outer edge of said front portion and to the rear of said rear portion to form a back portion, then between said back and rear portions, then between said front and rear portions; stitches passing through said back, rear and main portions, and the material therebetween; and stitches near said inner fold passing through said stiffening strip, and the front portion of the outer material.

BERNARD M. KRELL. 

